Saturday, October 17, 2009

Lonely Planet on Madras

Lonely Planet, while a generally good travel guide, has depicted my unique hometown in a rather unflattering light. What irked me when I read their article on Madras was the clearly partisan viewpoint that celebrates in other Indian cities the same deficiencies one sees in Madras.

Krish Ashok absolutely nails it when he lambastes the obvious bias in the article, and demonstrates that a similar article could be written about any of the large cities in India.

Allow me to add my own Rs 0.02 to his points.

Notes:
  • I use "Madras" instead of "Chennai", because no matter what the politicians say, that is how I will always identify my home town. I am however, forced to use the word "Chennaiite" to describe people like me, if only to avoid the once-inoccuous term "Madrasi" which has been forcibly turned into a pejorative by ignorant Northerners.
  • I recognize that people love their cities for different reasons. I may not prefer to live in certain cities mentioned in the LP article, but I promise not to diss them.
  1. Madras is hot. Get used to it. A real Chennaiite jokes about the weather, owns one sweater for when he/she has to visit Delhi, and gets most of his/her work done in the morning and evening.
  2. Tamil film stars are 'not that hot'. Let's see. In approximate chronological order, Waheeda Rehman, Vyjayantimala Bali, Hema Malini, Rekha, Sridevi, Meenakshi Seshadri, Padma Lakshmi. I must be missing something. The only other state that has contributed a comparable number of female headliners to the Hindi film industry must be West Bengal.
  3. Madras lacks 'historical drama'. Ok, seriously? Madras may not be as old as Delhi is, but it has had a long, distinguished history of its own. It is home to several stunning temples, some of which are more than a thousand years old, and a culture and tradition that has flourished for much longer. It has also had some unique moments in modern Indian history, like being bombed during World War I (any schoolkid in Madras will tell you the name of the German ship that did it - The SMS Emden), being the final resting place of the apostle St. Thomas, featuring prominently in the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, among others.
  4. Madras lacks the 'optimistic buzz' of Bangalore. We Chennaiites take that as a compliment. Perhaps this sense of realism comes from firm grounding in tradition. Our city grooms us such that we never lose touch with our roots, whether it is celebrating a traditional kolu during Navarathri, learning classical music and dance the traditional way, or even being polite. Madras chooses to assimilate influences into its culture, rather than let them replace what exists already. The strength of its culture also explains why for an Indian city, Madras has a surprisingly large foreign population. The Hindu for example, frequently showcases Russians, Japanese, Australians and Americans who origanally came to Madras to learn classical dance or music, and have since made Madras their permanent home.
  5. Madras is difficult to get around in. Krish Ashok has already touched upon this, but let me reinforce that Madras has long boasted of one of the best (and cheapest) public bus systems in the country. Add to that an efficient multiple-route suburban train system, and the much awaited Chennai Metro, and you have a good model for public transport that other cities in India could take a leaf or two out of. Autorickshaws are another matter altogether, but the emergence of share autos (or tempos, if you prefer) and call-taxi services has somewhat relaxed their once firm grip on our purses.

    Its problems notwithstanding, Madras is a wonderful city with plenty to offer, but only to those willing to partake of it. To all the others, we politely say "Thank you for coming. Please come again, and perhaps you will realize the magic of this place next time."

    Edit (20/10/2009): Removed Vidya Balan from the list of Bollywood actresses of Tamil origin, since it turns out she's a Palakkad Iyer and not a Tamil Iyer.

    24 comments:

    Prashanth said...

    very valid points.

    Let me fortify the point that Chennai has one of the best urban transit systems in the world :

    http://www.forbes.com/2008/10/28/commute-cities-world-forbeslife-cx_mw_1028realestate_slide_9.html?thisspeed=25000

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @SP: Great find! It's good to see that not all external perspectives of Chennai are biased.

    venki said...

    hey brilliant... i'm getting to read your blog for the first time from krishashok's link... a very level headed perspective...

    Akshat Jain said...

    Dude! Remember me? Reached your blog through a link on another one and thought - Hey, wait a minute! This looks familiar! :)
    Anyway, to the point of this blog! Well written dude! I agree with most of what you have written and the reason I find myself qualified to comment on it is that I am living in Chennai myself!
    I would ask you where you are and stuff but I have already abused this platform by filling it with post unrelated remarks! So do drop me a message on Orkut or Facebook or my email ID. I don't have your email ID, unfortunately. Look forward to hearing from you.

    Sekhar said...

    Autos have become worse everywhere.Those who complain about Chennai autos must travel in Pune and Bangalore autos to understand other harsh realities about Indian autos.

    StudioAbraham said...

    I got your reference from the blog (http://krishashok.wordpress.com/about/). I had recently taken up project to know my city better & in the pursuit read the lonely planet review on Chennai. Shocked, just like how a typical Chennai-ite would, I took up a fight with them. I tried getting support from the Tourism board of Tamilnadu (Minister Kanimolzhi & Irai Anbu IAS) but still haven't heard back from them.

    After some 10 mails to various Lonely Planet email Ids, I got the below response from one of their editors and I replied back rather emotionally rather than being objective. I am looking for support especially from recognised writers who are passionate about chennai to join this "War on Lonely Planet" - Do let me know if this area is of interest to you.

    Well most of people I spoke to about this feel this is too trivial an issue to wage a war. But to me this is my town! And I know for sure that most seasoned travels stick up with Lonely Planet especially in the case of the lesser know cities of the world, I at least do :)

    Look forward to hear from you. I've already writen an email to Kirsh & Sharnaya - dint have your email id hence reaching out to you here

    Vimal
    vimal.abraham@gmail.com

    Anonymous said...

    Came her through Krish Ashok -- mostly agree with all that you say & would also defend my city like you, were someone to bash it up like those LP blokes!
    But one small niggling fact - Vidya Balan is not from Chennai. She's a Palakkad Iyer & belongs to the second generation in her family to have been born & brought up in Mumbai :)

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @Venki: Thanks a bunch!

    @Sekhar: True, autorickshaws are a pain in many Indian cities, but Chennai's auto drivers seem to have built up quite a reputation over the past decade or so. Of course, the problem is much more complicated than it looks.

    @Anonymous: Thanks for the tip! The Wikipedia article on Vidya Balan describes her as a "Tamil Iyer born in Palakkad, Kerala", and her mother tongue is indicated to be Tamil. Of course, she is a second-generation NRT or NRM as the case may be. In any case, removed her from the list.

    Anonymous said...

    Chennai is not a name coined by politicians. It's the Tamil word for "Madras" which is what people use when they write in English. You may like the English word, but that doesn't mean Chennai isn't Chennai :-)

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @above: Actually, that's what the politicians would have you believe. There seems to be no conclusive evidence to prove that "Madraspattinam" was coined by the British or the Portuguese, or that "Chennaipattinam" was in use before "Madraspattinam".

    kaushik said...

    I totally agree...7-8 years ago, I was being a totally random amit123, when my folks moved from Calcutta to Madras, but being there for sometime has made me like the city very much, although there are times when I get pissed with the Auto-karan and get irritated at the non-arrival of 12B when I need it most.

    It is very different city and does not fit into the happening sterotypes that Bombay, Delhi, Bangalore etc have, but people coming in do not want to give themselves an opportunity to get to know and appreciate the city.

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @kaushik: Well said. People who choose to really get to know the city end up appreciating many things about it, like you have. Also, I've lived in Madras almost all my life, and some auto-karans still piss me off :)

    cathedralist said...

    Hear, hear!

    Shaan said...

    The actresses you mentioned including Vidya Balan are Tamil actors, but they may or may not be from Chennai. Vidya being a Palakkad Iyer is a Tamil. But what's wrong with actors of Tamil movies even those from the north? Are they not hot? Now the whole bollywood is celebrating Asin as the hottest actor even though they never cared to notice her when she was in Tamil movie industry.

    In a way the perception of Chennai as a city that is unfriendly to northerners is good for us. It helps to keep away the Biharis and bhaiyaas who have swamped Mumbai and even Bangalore nowadays.

    Sue said...

    I've been saying it for many years now but I'll say it once more. I like Madras. It makes up by way of attitude, food and eccentricity what it lacks in terms of water and maids.

    CK said...

    Hey bro. I live in Bangalore and kind of agree with everything you said. The weather here is better but that's about it. There's hardly any history, and don't get me started about the traffic. And if you're not a booze-o-holic, then you're bored to death. Chennai's got flare. Cheers.

    Navaneetha Krishnan said...

    I am not really sure if we should care too much about others looking at Madras with dark glasses on. The more people from outside like a city, the more it becomes a Bangalore or Bombay. Becoming a cosmopolitan city is definitely not a proud achievement for a city in the sense that it loses it own identity ans sheen in the process. If everyone is going to love Madras and start settling down there like what has happened in Bangalore, filter kaapi, Mr Kabali, Madisaaru and Maargazhi might all become things of folklore. So I personally believe that god has been especially kind with us in giving us a weather, language and culture that only we can relish. I still fondly remember playing cricket at 12 noon all through summer holidays and still not getting a sun stroke ... :)

    Revati.Nidhi said...

    i think it was 1998. the train from bangalore left madras 2 hrs ago and there was this amit_junior_xyz returning from an interview with hal-bangalore who asked me what state(geographic) we were in. i asked him how many states there were in the south to which he said he didn't know. i was totally angry and told he was not fit for the job he interviewed for, that too in south india. next 3 min saw everybody in the coach listening to me lecture the amit on south india. and by the way i am a nomad that lived in all parts of india starting with kerala including nagaland at some point. i strongly believe talking to amits more than 3 min to educate them is a horrondous waste of time and much more. i can not see any other place have a "Season" like madras has during dec-jan.

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @Sue: Why maids? Agree with everything else, of course.
    @CK: Yeah, the weather is pretty much the only thing that Bangalore can boast about today. Shame. It was a beautiful, sleepy little town once.
    @Navaneetha: That's certainly a novel way of looking at it :) Of course, we are all thankful that Madras is what it is today, and perhaps the little difficulties that we encounter are the price we need to pay for it. On the other hand, my personal opinion is that Bombay has created a wonderful identity of its own as a direct result of its multiculturalism. Perhaps if things were different, Madras would have gone the same way.
    @Revati: I know the feeling. I have North Indian friends who once didn't know that there are at least four major South Indian languages. On the other hand, I didn't know that Bhojpuri was as big a language as it is, or the various languages spoken in the North-East. I guess what matters most is the willingness to learn once you get the opportunity to do so.

    Sue said...

    My parents lived in the Boat Club area and currently stay in Nungambakkam. The maid situation has been dire. The story of our times, I'm thinking.

    Kaushik Ramajayam said...

    @Sue: Interesting. We had our own little troubles with maids (poor attendance, mostly), but we have always found someone trustworthy.

    Sue said...

    Honesty has not been the issue so far. Availability has!

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    Ameya Karve said...

    A different perspective is all I would say. True that the Lonely Planet article was shit, but I must say..the public transport system isnt great. I have lived in Bangalore and Pune; now in Chennai and I find it is most difficult to get around. The auto fare for 10 km is half the train fare i pay for 400 km;it is impossible to bargain if you don't know tam, and the only way to get onto a bus in the evenings is by doing some circus like balancing act on the footboard